GIANYAR
Regency

It has been the stamping ground of Bali's earliest dynasties in recorded history. It is here that the first great lines of Hindu Zed Kings established themselves. Pejeng was the center of power until the early 14th century , when the last line of Warmadewa was defeated by Majapahit Empire, Under Gajah Mada , in 1343. The two rivers, Petanu and Pakerisan , have been storing series of ancient historical remains along the banks, such as temples, meditation cells , baths and other monuments

· PURI LUKISAN / GALLERY
The Museum Lukisan Ratna Warta, usually called the Puri Lukisan ( the palace of paitings ), was opened in 1953. set amongst a restful sculpture garden, this museum contains a magnificent collection f modern Balinese paintings and sculptures, chosen under the discerning eye of the Ducth artist, Rudolf Bonnet (1895 - 1978 ), over the years since he first arrived in Bali.

· CELUK
Balinese jewellery is unique, and Celuk is the home of much of it. Nearly every family in Celuk is involved in some aspects of the delicate gold and silver work, which has become very famous over the years.

· MAS VILLAGE
This is a village specializing in woodcarvings of any kind. Most of the prominent wood carvers of Bali dwell in Mas village, producing elaborate and fine woodcarving and this is where they teach the young generation to carve by imitating the master carvers.

· BATUBULAN
Just outside of Denpasar on the road to Ubud , is a small village where stone statues line the roadside in an impressive array. Terrible fanged demons, noble warriors, and animals of all shapes and size and at all stages of completion rest under the shady trees.

· UBUD
Famous for its painter's community, Ubud is special in more ways than one. It has its own magic, and its particularly beautiful surroundings and gracious way of life have drawn celebrities and artists from all over the world in recent decades; some have even adopted Ubud as their own home. The magic is easy to find - just take a walk south of the village through its terraced paddy fields to the monkey forest. Fresh water spouts out of the sheer rock at the base of the ravine, and a bath in a secluded shady spot is purifying.

· GOA GAJAH
Literally means Elephant cave, and it is a "T" shapped cave. This was an ancient monastery of Hindu and Buddhist monks who used to meditate in the cave. It is believed that the cave was built in the early 11th century . Its face is elaborately carved, depicting a demon head splitting open the rock with its bare hand at the mouth of the cave.

· BALI BIRD PARK
The Taman Burung Bird Park Situated in Batubulan, is home to more than thousand birds ( 250 exotic bird species ) from Indonesia and all over the world. It is set in Two hectares magnificent gardens filled with tropical plants, water features and spectacular rain forest in aviary. Also see the famous Komodo Dragon . Has restaurant for visitors to interact with nature by having breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea with bird .

·

TAMPAK SIRING
The holy spring which bubbles up in the inner courtyard of the Tirta empul Temple in Tampaksiring is believed to have magic curative powers, and throngs of people visit the special bathing pools where clear cool water spouts from mossy walls. Legend has it that the God Indra created the spring , piercing the ground in search of holy water.

· GUNUNG KAWI
These 11th century tombs , carved out of the rock face of the gorge of the Pakrisan river, are approached by a steep descent through breath- taking rice terrain scennary . Historically, the tombs probably have some connection with King Anak Wungsu. Across the gorge are some more impressive tombs that were the resident meditation caves of the only men who were rhe keepers of the tomb.

While it's possible to visit Ubud in just a day, such a short trip would barely touch the surface of this extraordinary village. An interesting mélange of rural Balinese life and modern services co-exist here. Only 60 minutes from Ngurah Rai airport, Ubud is close to many of central Bali's major sights. Despite the fact that visitors may outnumber residents during peak periods, Ubud retains the atmosphere of a small country community and, in contrast to the hassle of Kuta, the pace of life is very relaxed. It's a great place to tour on foot or by bicycle and there's a wide range of facilities for tourists of all budgets, as well as beaches 10 km away. For those who enjoy being close to natural beauty, yet within easy reach of creature comforts, Ubud is ideal.
Prices in US dollars. AC = Air conditioning. Telephone code is 0361.

UBUD

The main crossroads in front of the Puri Saren palace is the "navel" of Ubud-its cultural and historical focal point. The main street is lined with restaurants, hotels, shops and galleries, stretching all the way from the T-junction at the eastern end of Ubud to the Campuhan Bridge in the west. Small lanes lined with home stays, warungs and Balinese compounds extend north and south from the main road.

Jl. Monkey Forest, branching south from the middle of Ubud is lined with hotels, restaurants, artists' studios, and boutiques for a distance of some 2 km. A parallel road just to the east through Padang tegal is similar, though less congested. Away from these main streets, Ubud is still relatively quiet.

Roads radiate west out of the main town to Campuhan and Payangan, south to Pengosekan and east to Goa Gajah. Local bernos can be flagged down in the daytime on the main road. Ubud to Campuhan, for example, costs Rp1000.

Ubud Tourist Information

For information on performances, transport schedules, temple festivals, and special activities, inquire at the Ubud Tourist Information Center, across from the Pura Desa (village temple).

How to get to Ubud

Ubud is 60 minutes by car from the airport and southern beach resort areas and 40 minutes from Sanur. Taxis from the airport cost Rp90,000 (AC). Look for the booth at the airport: turn right after you leave customs. Alternatively, charter (and bargain for) a bemo outside the airport for about Rp75,000.

From Denpasar, take a bemo from Kereneng Terminal to Batubulan Terminal, then transfer to Ubud (Rp. 1,000). Chartering a bemo from Denpasar costs about $9. Alternatively, hop on one of the many shuttle buses which depart Kuta for Ubud at 8.30, 10 and 11.30 am, 1, 2.30 and 4pm ($4). Contact Perama Tour, JI. Legian, Kuta.

Although it's easy to get around Ubud on foot, you may choose to rent a mountain bike to save time and effort. Mountain bikes can be rented everywhere for $2/day. Motorbikes (100cc) cost $5.50/day. A Suzuki jeep costs $20 to $30 daily; cheaper by the week or month. Look for signs along all main roads.

Buy shuttle bus tickets to Kuta (Rp. 10,000) and Candidasa (Rp. 15,000) from the many trave! agencies in town. For a full schedule, contact Peramaswara Tour & Travel, Jl. Hanoman. Shuttles to Sanur, Kuta and the airport depart at 8.30, 10 and 11.30 am, 12:30, 3.30, 5.30, 6.30, and 7.30 pm. Direct Kuta shuttles depart Ubud the same hours. The shuttle to Lombok via Kuta leaves at 6 am.

Ubud Accommodations

Ubud's Accommodations have gone dramatically up market recently-hot water, AC, telephones and swimming pools are now readily available. Two of Bali's most exclusive hotels, Amandari and Four Seasons are also found here.

Decide on the area you want, then look around. Small hotels in the intermediate range
line JI. Raya Ubud and JI. Monkey Forest and offer lovely bungalows set in gardens with swimming pools for $20-$50/night. Balinese-style home stays provide charming rooms with private bathroom, fan and hot water for $5-$15. Artists invite people into their homes to study or just to experience Balinese hospitality. All are easily reached on foot from the town center.

Travel out of Ubud in almost any direction and you'll find little home stays and bungalows tucked in among the rice fields, some with dramatic vistas. If you stay out in the rice paddies, it's handy to take along a mosquito net and flashlight'

Peliatan and Pengosekan, both just south Of Ubud, are cheaper and quieter. Penestanan and Campuhan to the west are lovely villages. You can see farmers working the fields; the place is lusciously green with small bungalows, shops and restaurants sprouting up everywhere.

Sayan and Kedewatan, further to the west, offer luxury rooms with great views up to the volcanoes and down the Ayung River to the coast. Saba, on the coast south of Blahbatuh, Andong on the road north to Tampaksiring and Goa Gajah also boast hotels for the more affluent traveller.

Most rooms have private bathrooms and rates include breakfast. Budget hotels offer toast, coffee/tea and fruit salad for breakfast.

Budget (under $25)

These are Balinese home stays in family compounds or rooms in the paddies built for tourists. Simple and clean, many have attached bathrooms, hot water and fans. A simple breakfast is always included and children are welcome. Home stays are clustered in well defined areas: JI. Bisma, JI. Hanoman, JI. Kajeng, JI. Monkey Forest and JI. Tebesaya. As there is little difference in the level of comfort, the choice is really between experiencing the intimacy of a family compound or the daily rhythms of the rice fields. For cheaper places and longer stays, look around Peliatan, Penestanan, or Nyuh Kuning.

Moderate ($25-$50)

This category has the widest selection and the best value. Most hotels have pools and phones. Reservations recommended during the high seasons in July/August and December/January. Rates include breakfast and are subject to 21% tax and service. Rates may vary out of season.

First Class ($75-$100)

Luxury ($100 and up)

Spacious Balinese inspired bungalows with AC, mini-bar, private pool and balconies overlooking a private garden with a view. Airport transfers are usually included. Major credit cards accepted. Prices quoted do not include tax and service.

Eating Out in Ubud

Ubud has an incredible variety of places to eat. The simple warungs serving nasi campur and satay are still around, but so is everything else. Today Ubud offers a choice ranging from American hamburgers and steaks, country-style Japanese, and sophisticated Italian pastas all the way to haute cuisine with worldwide acclaim. A few restaurants stand heads and shoulders above the crowd for the quality and the originality of their food. Those on a budget can find the local warungs, although they're fast being replaced by more upscale eateries. The following is a sampler of the area's better restaurants.

Central Ubud

Ary's Warung J1. Raya Ubud, opposite Pura Desa. The place to see and be seen. Nostalgic atmosphere with marble-topped tables and sepia-tinted photos. Creative menu with a wide range of appetizers and entrees: potato skins, Waldorf salad, chicken ranchero, and coconut pie. Extensive drinks menu, including wine and champagne. Sit upstairs and watch Ubud go by. Pricey.

Batan Waru JI. Dewi Sita (south of the soccer field). Best place in town for breakfast check out the ginger pancakes and the Florida lime pie! Extensive Indonesian menu without the fire (if you want it hot, request it). This is definitely Yuppieville. Opens at 9 am.

Bumbu Indian and Vegetarian Restaurant Jl. Suweta, north of the Wantilan community hall. The specialties of the house can be sampled on Saturday evenings with their vegetarian buffet, $5. Try the exotic rose petal yogurt drink.

Cafe Lotus Jl. Raya Ubud. While still one of the most beautiful settings in Ubud (in front of the royal family's clan temple and a huge lotus garden pond), the food and service are lackluster. Homemade pastas, fabulous desserts. Pricey.

Casa Luna . Two floors of spacious dining with an exotic menu combining old favorites (Jungle Jim chicken and Indian potato masala) with new taste treats like focaccio, Amalfi tuna salad and paella. Just inside the entry is a bakery with fresh baked breads and cakes. Nightly movies in the back.

Griya's BBQ JI. Raya Ubud, west of the market. Sit up in the back over looking a garden, sip an ice cold beer and munch some of the best peanuts in town. Griya's is famous for its barbequed tuna, chicken and beef, and with good reason!

Jogjakarta Café JI. Monkey Forest, south of the soccer field. Fresh seafood grilled right there. Tell them to hold off on the butter if you're averse to the grease. Super cheap; nightly movies.

Mumbul's Jl. Raya Ubud, west of the market. An ice cream parlor over looking a ravine featuring an open-air patio. The obvious place to bring kids as the menu caters to young and old alike. Extensive selection of burgers and Indonesian favorites and a special kids' menu. Top it all off with a capucino freeze ice cream sundae. The Sunday brunch is an Ubud institution, less than $10.

Sai Sai Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, south of the soccer field. The hang-out for the local guys. Full bar, nightly movies.

Tut Mak Warung Kopi JI. Dewi Sita, south of the soccer field. A hang-out for the expert crowd, the salads here can't be beat and some of the best coffee in Bali is roasted here. Try the moist orange pound cake while sipping an iced caffe latte.

West of Ubud

Amandari , Sayan Romantically overlooking the Ayung River, with superb food and service. The menu is the attraction: rack of lamb, breast of duck and seasonal seafood are all acclaimed. The desserts are divine; the cr6me brul6e and chocolate cake are outstanding. Reservations required. Major credit cards accepted-you'll need one!

Beggar's Bush Campuhan , above the bridge. An English pub in Ubud... why not? Icy cold draft beer and a convivial ambience. Victor Mason, historian, bird-watcher supremo, author and raconteur, often entertains the congregation late into the night. Highly original menu with emphasis on surf'n'turf staples.

Bridge Café Campuhan end of the bridge. With a new cook in tow, the specialty of the house is pizza.' Great view and chic interior.

Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan . Fabulous view from the upstairs bar: the perfect place for a romantic sunset cocktail. Unfortunately the food is average. Murni's Warung An old favorite, on the Ubud side of the Campuhan bridge. This is where the eclectic menu mix of American and Balinese favorites started in the late 1970's. The hamburger has stood the test of time and the sate, gada-gado and grilled fish are still delectable. The lower dining areas offer tranquility, with only the sound of the river to disturb the peace. Great desserts, notably the banana cream pie, strawberry yogurt pie and poppy seed cake.

North of Ubud

Kampung Café Ceking , Tegallalang. The latest in nouveau Indonesian cuisine, this gem of a place overlooks the incredible terraced rice fields of Ceking. The pastas and salads are divine and the specials of the day will knock your socks off with their innovativeness and freshness of ingredients. The chocolate brownies will keep you going all day. Service is slow, but the price is right. Klub Kokos Café Bangkiang Sidem. A pleasant 30 minutes stroll from Ubud. Go to the Ibah Hotel, follow the "going to the Hill" sign and walk along a scenic ridge high up between two river valleys. Great place to have a drink while hiking around the hills.

South of Ubud

Café Arma JI. Pengosekan. Specializing in Italian food (the chef worked at a five-star hotel in Jakarta for years). Try the fried squid, the seafood pastas and the pizzas. Full bar. Part of the ARMA Museum complex.

Café Wayan Jl. Monkey Forest, One of the best places in town to eat. Ibu Wayan has trained in California and Thailand and the menu reflects this diversity. Specials nightly and Sunday night is a Balinese buffet for under $10. Packed at dinner, not so crowded at lunch. Death by Chocolate Cake is just that; other desserts are on the dry side.

Dian's JI. Monkey Forest. Good Javanese and Chinese fare at a modest price. Open late.

Dirty Duck Diner Padangtegal. Offers a highly creative, cheeky menu-try the Pita Hay worth or Tutor O'Neal. The specialty is crispy fried duck, a variation of a traditional Javanese recipe. Low tables with cushions create a cozy atmosphere and the food is wholesome. Local ex-pats swear by the salads, pastas and vegetarian dishes. Daily specials and a great selection of desserts.

Ibu Rai JI. Monkey Forest, opposite the soccer fid. Sea bass with herb sauce only $5. Sate is an old stand-by. Food uniformly good.

Kagemusha/Kokila Café Padangtegal. A traditional Japanese-style inn specializing in home cooked food. Great bento box-lunch as well as tonkatsu, yakitod and udon noodle soups. On a cool evening, the hot sake is fortifying, as is the Japanese green tea, o-cha.

Kokokan Club JI. Bima, Pengosekan. Mainly Thai food with a full bar downstairs and an elegant restaurant upstairs. Part of the ARMA complex. I ob Lane A. Wanara Wana (Monkey Forest Road) Newly renovated, the restaurant offers Balinese cuisine, fresh seafood, pizza and home-made pasta. Overlooks the nearby rice fields.

Ubud Raya Padangtegal . Japanese and Javanese specialties. Wholesome food done simply and well. The pumpkin or miso soups as starters compliment the tempura teriyaki and sukiyaki entrees.

Warung Teges J1. Raya Peliatan, as it opens onto fields leading to Mas. Serves either nasi campur made with pork or a nasi ayam, for $3. Clean and simple, a favorite with local taxi drivers.

East of Ubud

Bali Buddha Bagelry Opposite the main post office in Ubud. Ubud's first bagel shop with the most outrageous murals on the bakery across the street. After you pick up your mail, sit down with a cold drink (like tamarind fizz or a yogurt smoothie), a bagel smeared with sundries tomatoes and cream cheese and read a magazine. left behind by another patron. Friday night poetry readings and a bulletin board. Local deliveries made.

Ubud Night Life

Ubud's nightlife has taken a turn for the better in recent years with a small but lively scene establishing itself, as more and more late night bars continue to open. There's no better place to start your evening than at

• Naughty Nuri's on Jl. Campuan (opposite the Neka Museum). A busy local hangout with lots of character. The relaxed atmosphere may well be due to the epic Martinis but the real drawing card is the roadside barbecue and the famous ribs.
• For a laidback drinking atmosphere try the tiny cocktail bar at Ary's Warung (see 'Dining') or the Putra Bar on JI. Monkey Forest which has live reggae and is open until midnight, as is the casual Sai Sai bar across the road.
• The Jazz Café on JI. Sukma offers live jazz on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, from 7pm. It attracts a nice crowd of people and is the perfect place to drink while snacking off the menu.
• The Funky Monkey on Monkey Forest Road is the place to be seen late on, playing the latest tunes and serving fabulous cocktails to a young and chic clientele.

Ubud Performances

There are performances daily. Check with the Ubud Tourist Information (UTI) for changes or special events. All performances begin at 7.30 pm, unless otherwise noted. Tickets are around $5.50.

Sunday. Children's Barong dance at Puri Lukisan Museum, 10 am; Kecak, Fire and Trance dance at Padang Tegal, 7 pm; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Bona, 6.30 pm (leave at 6 pm from UTI); Shadow Puppet Play at Oka Kartini, 8 pm; Mahabharata Ballet at Ubud Palace; Women's gamelan with child dancers, Peliatan.

Monday. Kecak, Pura Desa Junjungan, 6.30 pm (free transport leave at 6.30 pm from UTI); Legong dance at Ubud Palace; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Bona; Ciwa Ratri dance with Begyung gamelan at Pura Dalem Puri; Barong and Keris dance, Jaba Pura Padang Kerta, Padang Tegal Kelod, 7 pm.

Tuesday. Shadow Puppet play with Calonarang story at Kertha Accommodations in Ubud, 8 pm; Mahabharata dance at Teges village; Ramayana Ballet at Ubud Palace; Spirit of Bali (various dances) at Jaba Pura Desa Kutuh; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Jaba Pura Padang Kerta, Padang Tegal Kelod.

Wednesday. Shadow Puppet Play at Oka Kartini, 8 pm; Legong and Barong dance at Ubud Palace; Legong and Tiger Barong dance at Banjar Tengah, Peliatan; Kecak Fire and Trance dance, Padang Tegal, 7 pm; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Bona, 6.30 pm (leave UTI at 6 pm).

Thursday. Gabor dance at Ubud Palace; Kecak at Puri Agung Peliatan; Calonarang at Mawang Village, 7 pm (leave UTI at 6.30 pm).

Friday. Barong dance at Ubud Palace, 6.30 pm; Legong dance at Puri Dalem Puri (Tirta Sari troupe) (free transport from UTI at 6.45 pm); Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Pura Dalem Ubud.

Saturday. Shadow Puppet play of Calonarang story at Kertha Accommodations in Ubud, 8 pm; Legong dance at Ubud Palace; Calonarang dance at Mawang village, 7 pm (leave LITI at 6.30); Legong dance at Puri Dalem Puri (leave LITI at 6.45 pm), Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Padang Tegal, 7 pm.

Every full and new moon at the ARMA Open Stage in Pengosekan is the "new" (read 1970's) kecak choreographed by Sardono Kusuma, 7 pm-8 pm. The night before the new and full moon is the Legong Trance dance by the Tista Andir troupe from West Bali. This is authentic trance in a commercial venue-be forewarned that it gets rather violent (keris stabbing) and might be a bit too much for children. 7 pm.

The Barong dance is held in Batubulan daily at 9.30 am. The most classical of Balinese dance-dramas, Gambuh, is held in Batuan village on the Ist and 15th of every month, 7 pm9 pm, $6.

Ubud Museums and Galleries

Most museums and galleries open at 8 am and many remain open on demand through the evening. Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) JI. Bima, Pangosekan. Phone 974168. Entrance fee under a dollar. This monumental structure houses the private collection of highly regarded collector, Agung Rai. See originals by famous painters such as Spies, Bonnet, Hofker, Affandi, and others. Rotating exhibits. Bookshop, library an shop on premises. Hours: 9 am-6 pm.

Bamboo Gallery Jl. Raya Ubud, east of Neka. A small air conditioned gallery tastefully decorated and specializing in contemporary Indonesian art.

Lempad Gallery JI. Raya Ubud. Home and studio of Bali's most famous artist, Lempad, who died in 1978 at the age of 116. The gallery is now run by his great grandchildren.

Munut Gallery On the main road, near the turnoff to Peliatan. Run by I Wayan Munut, a pupil of Rudolf Bonnet. Contemporary Indonesian and Balinese art. Museum Puri Luklean. Founded under the auspices the royal family in 1953, the collection represents the evolution of Balinese painting from its inception in the 1930's until the present. Originally catalogued by Rudolf Bonnet, the current trustees have maintained the same standard through a continuous program of acquisitions. Tranquil setting in lovely gardens. Small admission fee. 8 am-4 pm.

Neka Gallery Opposite the post office. Home of Bali's most foremost collector, Suteja Neka.

Neka Museum Sangginan, on the main road 1.5 km west of Ubud. Neka is Ubud's foremost art dealer and patron. Four traditional buildings house Neka's private collection by Bali's most revered artists: Lempad, Spies, Covarrubias, I Bagus Made and Made Wianta. Open 9 am-4 pm. Entrance fee under $1.

Rudana Museum Main road going from Mas to Peliatan. Nice collection of contemporary Indonesian art housed in a monumental marble building.

Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women JI. Sriwedari 213, Banjar Taman and main street of Ubud. Although displaying works by women world-wide, the focus is on female Balinese artists. Only one of its kind in Southeast Asia. 8 am-5 pm.

Shopping in Ubud

Ubud offers a surprisingly sophisticated range of shopping opportunities. Take your time and browse in a leisurely fashion.

Painting

If you are seriously in the market for paintings, first look in the major galleries to see what is available for how much, then seek out the artists in their own homes. Much of the fun is meeting them and discussing the nature of things over a cup of Balinese coffee. The best known galleries are Neka, Agung Rai, Agung Raka, Komaneka, Munut, Rudana, and Nyoman Sumertha. Outside Ubud itself, the best painters are found in Pengosekan, Pelialtan, Penestanan and Batuan. A partial list of highly regarded local artists: Antonio Blanco, recently deceased long-term resident, immortalized as self-styled "Dali of Bali," Campuhan. Ketut Budiyana, JI. Hanoman. Wayan Durus, classic style, JI. Tebesaya, Peliatan. Ngurah K K, refined "Young Artist" style, Campuhan. Hans Snel, Dutch painter known for his abstract style, JI. Kajeng.

Textile and Clothing

Jani's on JI. Monkey Forest has a wide range of high quality ikat textiles; from the archipelago. Argasoka specializes in collector's quality Javanese batiks. Kunang Kunang has two stores, one near Mumi's and the other below the Pura Dalem, offering silver and antiques, clothes, textiles and collectibles. Uluwatu have a boutique on JI. Monkey Forest that showcases their beautifully crafted Balinese lace clothing and linen.

Get great presents for kids at Lulu's, Noe and Pelangi, all on JI. Monkey Forest and kids'clothes at Gayatri at Ubud Kelod. At Kamar Sutra, a small jewel of a boutique next to Cafe Wayan you can find pricey but chic clothing and shoes. Aumsari at the intersection in Andong is an innovative retailer with a range of quality items.

It's surprising how few designers are using local textiles to make clothing (except for the local one size/style fits all rayon silk screens). The few places where you can get the real stuff are Gego for Balinese ikat made into smart clothes and cool ties, The Wiz (next to Mumbul's Ice Cream Parlour) for batik and ikat women's clothing for all sizes, Bamboo near the Post Office for ikat shirts and kimonos, and Naga Studios in Andong for American designer Nadya's one of a kind creations (she makes her own fabrics as well). For bulk fabric, try Wardhani's on JI. Monkey Forest, just south of the soccer field. You can also buy ready-made temple clothing here. Ubud Market in the center of town offers the usual selection of T-shirts, shoes, sarongs and cheap, readymade clothes. Try to time your visit to coincide with the produce market held every three days great bustle and activity! For house wares, such as pillows, bed sheets and the like, Casa Lina on JI. Raya Ubud, west of the market will suit you.

Jewelry

Purpa Silver has a range of designer jewelry made on the premises on JI. Monkey Forest. At the south end of JI. Monkey Forest is Seraphim, an air conditioned shop with exclusive designs of gold and silver jewelry with precious and semi-precious gemstones. At the other end of JI. Monkey Forest is Bead N Bali, where you can make up your own earrings and necklaces with beads and handmade findings.

Wood

Wooden handicrafts of all imaginable sizes, shapes and colors are available from Dewa Windia, west of the huge banyan tree in Peliatan. If you want to buy at lower prices, head up the hill to Tegallalang and Pujung, northeast of Ubud. A bewildering number of shops along the way, mostly exporters, invite inspection. Don't miss the Pasar Seni Sukawati, a handicraft market in the middle of Sukawati, south of Ubud. Masses of stalls offer souvenirs at bargain prices.

For those looking for high quality dance masks, the favorite carvers are Ida Bagus Anom in Mas (next to the soccer field), whose innovative designs can be seen everywhere in Bali, and Ida Baguis Alit in Lod Tunduh Oust south of the junction at Mas and Lod Tunduh). There will soon be a Museum of Woodcarving in Mas.

Antique teak furniture can be found in the shops along the road to Denpasar Mario's in Batuan and Puri Sakanan in Batubulan are two reliable places. Handsome wrought iron funiture and interior pieces are available at Mondirama in Andong. This shop also makes stained glass windows to order. Pak Wuk on the corner of the turn-off to Petulu makes Balinese ceremonial umbrellas in designer sizes-$135 for a 2-m-wide monster. Perfect for the patio!

Miscellaneous

Cemul on JI. Kajeng, has phantasmagoric sculptures by Bali's best known stone carver.
The more adventurous can find handicrafts in many of the less visited villages surrounding Ubud. Beautiful beadwork belts, bags and earrings are made in the lanes of Penestanan; batik cushions and bedcovers are sold by Wayan

lastri in Penestanan Kaja. The woodcarvers of Nyuh Kuning are renowned for their lifelike animals in waru wood. Kliki is home to artists specializing in miniature watercolors. Giant bamboo furniture abounds in Belaga on the road just before Bona. There are also many woodcarvers on the road between Tengkulak and Kemunuh.

Pondok Bamboo , on the road east of the Monkey Forest, has bamboo musical instruments suling and tingklik as well as percussion 'instruments for the gamelan orchestra. Nearby Kubuku has a variety of wind chimes for sale.

You can purchase English language magazines and newspapers at Ary's Bookshop on the main road, Baliku Cassettes on JI. Monkey Forest across the street from Cafe Wayan, Ubud New stand and Ganesha Bookshop down near the post office. Ganesha has the best selection of new and used books on Bali, plus interesting gift items. You can also participate in a Balinese music workshop here every Tuesday evening at 6 pm for around $5. Ubud Music, opposite Mumbul's, has a selection of cassettes and books. On the corner of the Post Office road is a tiny stationery store that specializes in handmade rice paper and bamboo paper products .

Ubud Activities

Sobek , JI. Tirta Ening 9, operates white water rafting trips on the Ayung River, a fabulous ride down dramatic gorges. $78 per person, including all equipment, transfers, guides, and a great lunch. Many agents in Ubud handle bookings. Sobek also organizes jungle treks, mountain biking and river kayaking trips for $60-$75 per person. For other rafting companies operating on the Ayung River,

The Bali Bird Club organizes walks around Ubud. Tours are led by Victor Mason, longtime resident and ornithological expert. The $53 price includes lunch, transport, and a copy of Bali Bird Guide. Make reservations through Sobek.

The Bali Bird Park and Bali Reptile Park in Singapadu are on the back road between Ubud and Batubulan. The Bird Park houses over 1,000 birds and two Komodo dragons. The gardens are beautifully sculptured. Well worth a visit. Open 9 am-6 pm daily, $9.

The Crackpot Batik Workshop on JI. Monkey Forest allows you to make your own batik T-shirt (or sarong, cushion, etc.) using their designs or yours. Kids love it! $12.50-$22.50. For special classes in batik-ing, contact Nyoman Suradnya, $35.