The western districts of Tabanan and Mengwi were once powerful warring princedoms. In 1891, Mengwi was engulfed by its belligerent neighbors Tabanan and Badung. The days of absolute rule by raias ended entirely with the Dutch conquest of South Bali in 1908. Unlike the Raja of Karangasem, the Raja of Tabanan did not have an agreement with the Dutch and, therefore, lost the rights to his lands. They were redistributed among councils of individual villages. With their own land, the communities prospered, and now Tabanan is a rich, prolific area.

Although the rajas were deprived of political powers, they remained leaders among their people. Palaces continued to serve as centers of the arts, and royal families retained their essential role of presiding over devotions at the state temples. Residents throughout Mengwi participate in the cult of Pura Taman Ayun, the old kingdom's state temple. In jungles near the peak of the western volcano Batukau, lies the mountain sanctuary of Pura Luhur, also a royal temple. The gigantic forests that surround the sanctuary are uninhabitable wilderness, yet processions of thousands have journeyed there to pay homage.

The western uplands of Batukau are famed formagnificent landscapes. The view from the mountain village, Jatiluvvih, takes in the whole of South Bali . Perched on a high terraced slope, Jatiluwih earned its name, which means "Truly Marvellous". The mountain range extends to the western tip of Bali through the darkest, most mysterious regions of the island. Here dwell the ghosts of Pulaki, a legendary city destined to sink into the earth. Deer, crocodile and wild hogs roam these dense bush lands. Some even say the last tiger of Bali stalks here, though no one has seen it for some years.

As little known as the mystifying tiger are enchanting beaches of the west that stretch for kilometers against a booming surf. Volcanic coves facing the Bukit Peninsula sometimes contain, etched upon their lava the ruined foundations of ancient sea les. And many of these secluded bays are en for sunbathers.

More than any of the tours, the trip to the is a series of excursions to places of special interest, rather than a continuous round near Tabanan trip. Each destination is a reason in itself to travel there: the Monkey Forest of Sangeh, the moated temple Pura Taman Ayun, the coral gardens of Tanah Lot, the beaches of Krambitan, or the far western capital of Negara with its bull races. If you are interested in making a short trip, many of these places are easily reached from Denpasar. For journeying to the more remote beaches and sanctuaries, check for current road conditions.

Many Javanese have moved to West Bali . The subak irrigation organizations there the backbone of agricultural life and livelihood operate well with their Hindu and Muslim members. The movement of Indonesians from densely populated areas (Java, in particular) to relatively open regions or wilderness is encouraged by the government's Transmigrasi scheme. Indonesians are becoming aware of the vastness of their own country. Balinese transmigration has worked well in the Palu area of Central Sulawesi .

SANGEH. Rawana, the villainous giant of the Ramayana epic, could die neither on earth nor in air. To kill him, the monkey general Hanuman devised a plan to suffocate the giant by pressing him between two halves of the holy mountain Mahameru a destruction between the earth and air. When Hanuman took Mahameru, part of the mountain fell to the earth in Sangeh, along with a group of his monkey armies. And so they stayed to this very day.

Such is the legendary origin of Bukit Sari, or The Monkey Forest, a cluster of towering trees and home of hundreds of sprite monkeys. The forest is sacred and for many years no one has been permitted to chop wood there. A moss-covered temple lies in the heart of the woods and is a familiar hideout for the nimble Inhabitants. You make many friends by buying a bag of peanuts, and for such a feast the monkeys often bring their families along. Rumor tells of a king of the monkeys who invariably has the first choice in selecting peanut handouts. He oversees one camp, who a rival king and his followers control another area of the forest. A beautiful restive place Sangeh has long been an inspiration for painters and monkey watchers.

The temple, Pura Sukit Sari, was origin built around the 17 th century as an agricultural temple and has been restored several times, most recently in 1973. In the center courtyard, a large statue of Garuda, an .carving of uncertain date, symbolizes freedom from suffering and the attainment of amerta the elixir of life. The forest of nutmeg trees which it lies was presumably planted delib.ately a long time ago, for it is unique in Bali .

There is a separate route linking Sangeh directly with Denpasar that begins at Jalan Kartini, making it a short trip. A side road joi.Blahkiuh, just south of Sangeh, with Mengwi which can also be reached by returning Denpasar and taking the trip to the west. Sub standard road links Sangeh with Ubud.

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