NORTHERN ROUND TRIP

Every island its round trip. In Bali this means leaving the south coast to pass over the volcanic mountain range that runs across the island and descending to the coastal region of Bulleleng in North Bali . The geographical separation between north and south has developed cultural difference between the two areas making the Northern Round Trip a study of contrasts.

The feudal rule of local rajas in North Bali ended in 1848, with Dutch control here sixty year prior to colonial rule in the south. Many of the descendants of the rajas become officials for the Dutch at this time. As a result of the European influence, the way of life in North Bali is more Western than the majority of rustic communities in the south. It was the women of Buleleng who first began wearing the malay blouse, kebaya, by official decree" to protect the moral of Dutch soldiers" in Singaraja the former Dutch capital the banjar system of communal responsibility is not so institutionalized; the social order centers more around the individual family until nor is the class system so stringent as it is in the south where the aristocracy continued to rule until 1908.

The art of North Bali is also distinctive. The intricate carving in the grey sand stone on the southern temples is more restrained than northern temples, where tall gates have a dynamic, flaming ascendancy and are covered entirely with luxurious design. The pink sand stone quarried near Singaraja is extremely soft, enabling northern carvers to give full vent to their imaginations, an advantage often leading to humorous Rabelaisian scene, Burlesque caricature of well fed European officials are portrayed in cartoon strips along the walls of some nor then temple. To add to the Jubilance many carvings are painted bright blue, white, red and yellow making them event more conspicuous. (Unfortunately, galvanized tin and zinc roofs are frequently used on temple pavilions, contrasting with the brilliance of the sculpture) In Balinese arts it was this area that first showed the influence of various European techniques.

The round trip is a full day's excursion. The road west through Bedugul is shorter and much faster then the return route through Kintamani, so it is advisable to reach Singaraja in the late morning and begin back in middle afternoon. It's good to bring a sweater along since the temperature drops ten degrees in the highland. Those who have time and don't mind roughing it a bit can investigate the entire coast of island by jeep stopping over in the village hotels. Before the advent of air travel, drove from there to Denpasar. Nowadays, few travelers journey to the north an intriguing area relatively undiscovered by the majority of island visitors.

In 1975, a golf course of international standards was opened on the shores of Lake Bratan near Bedugul. Set in the misty hills of Bratan, the course has hosted international tournaments. Bali , ever irresistible, is becoming a true tourist Mecca .

BEDUGUL. To reach the mountain range, you drive west from Denpasar through Mengwi. As you leave the southern plains, the landscape changes from flowing tiers of rice to motley patches of onion, cabbage and papaya grown in the cool climate of the highlands. The clusters of farmhouses a long the way are no longer the familiar thatched huts on the south, but sturdy cottages made of wood and tile to withstand the steady downpour of heavy rains. This is rich alpine country. The earth, saturated by mountains streams, is smothered with thick moss and creepers. The road climbs and winds its way around steep cliffs hung with ferns, wild flowers and elephant grass.

In jungle terrain lies the serene lake of Bratan , veiled with mist. It fills the ancient crater of Mt.Bratan. because the lake is an essential water source for surrounding farmlands, the people of Bedugul honor Dewi Danu, goddess of waters, in the temple Ulun Danu on a small promontory on the lake one can stay overnight nearby at a rest house on the shore. It is peaceful and cold. Children fish for minnows and canoes cross the still waters, carrying firewood to villages on the further bank. Just near Bedugul is the Market of Bukit Mungsu selling wild orchids and vegetables grown in the fertile soil here. Near the market is an orchid plantation soon to be developed into botanical gardens.

Lake Bratan is so lovely that it is easy t.forget the surrounding forest clad mountain from the market a path leads, through pi.plantations up towards the primary jungle of the peaks. An Old Dutch forestry house and the remains of a once extensive garden lie mysteriously within the forest. There is a small temp. high up; its walls carved with superb relief's on the road north of Bedugul, past the new international standard golf course, the road rises along the lip of Lake Buyan , affording a clear view of the Bratan basin.

SINGARAJA. From the highest point on the mountain pass, 1.220 meters obove sea level a spectacular descent brings you to the northern coast at Singaraja, capital of Buleleng regency Buleleng is a trip of land that stretches along whole northern coast of Bali open to the sheltered waters of the Java Sea and bordering on most of the other regencies. Archaic types of social organization and antiquities are found in many villages that are mentioned in inscription dating from the 10 th century onward. The inscriptions also tell of pirate raids. Through its history Buleleng has been more open than the rest of Bali to the influence of the maritime world of the Indonesian Archipelago ................men grew the gain known as Buleleng. Buleleng, gradually came to refer to the whole northern coast. The official day singaraja's foundation is 30 March 1604 , and each year a festival is held to commemorate it.

In 1814 a Britis military expedition stayed several months in Singaraja when Raffles was governor general. The British went, but the Dutch came, at first with demands and later bearing arms, accusing the rajas of reading wrecked ships. The first attempts of the Dutch ended in defeat or stalemate. In 1849 a reinforced expedition captured the Buleleng stronghold of Jagaraga, after a fierce week long battle. In 1882 the Dutch imposed direct colonial rule upon Buleleng and Jembrana. Singaraja became their capital and chief port and remained the seat of the colonial Indonesia government for the old Nusa Tenggara province (the Lesser Sunda Islands ) until 1953. Longer exposed to European influence than other parts of Bali , Singaraja has often been in the forefront of changes in the arts, fashion (wearing the kebaya began here), and political and social movements.

As an important shipping center, Singaraja has a cosmopolitan flavor about it the population of 15.000 comprises many ethnic and religious groups. It is not unusual to see and Islamic procession pass before a Chinese temple flanked by office buildings of European design. Residential sections of the town are named after such immigrant groups as the Bugis of Sulawesi, the Javanese and the Chinese. Ofter the bustle of Denpasar, Singaraja seems subdued, no longer a leader amongst Balinese towns. A legacy from Dutch time, how ever, is its continuing importance as educational center. The city also house a historical library, the Gedong Kirtya, which is the storehouse of Balinese, manuscripts totaling some 3000. lontar book leaves of the lontar palm cut in strips and preserved between two pieces of precious wood contain literature, mythology, historical chronicles and religious treatises, some works relatively n.others almost a millennium old. Minea.pictures, incised on leaves with an stylus, are masterpieces in the art of illusion. Prasastis, metal plate's inscribed royal edicts of the early Pejeng Bedaulu dynasty, are among the earliest written de.ments found in Bali .

Buleleng is the island chief coffe g.ing area. Freight anchored off the ha.load this cargo for export to European and orient. The climate here is drier than in south. Rather than rice, the fields yield in corn, oranges and crops of dry agriculture following temple of North Bali are lo.near Singaraja. If there is time, a pleasant further east between stately colonnades of leads to Yeh Sanih, as shimmering pool of ..green, flowing from undergrounds springs clear waters have been enclosed to ma.most refreshing place to swim. All long northern shore are sea temples.

SANGSIT. The temples of North Bali differ from those in the south. Instead of the small shrine and meru towers of southern temples, a single pedestal, built on a terraced stone base, furnishes the inner courtyard. Often, the pedestal supports a Padmasana, throne of the sun god, and sacred" house" to store relics and serve as a resting place for deities during temple festival. Next to the classical lines of southern decoration, north Balinese carving is forcefully baroque. Every crevice of the Temple proper is gaily carved in curves, plames, arabesques and spiral, cascading a light embulience everywhere.

A fine example of the northern style is pura Beji in sangsit, a subak temple dedicated to Dewi Sri, goddess of agriculture. Naga snakes form the balustrade of the fine gateway. Fantastic physiognomies of imaginary beast and devilish guardians peer from the entangled flora, deliberately cocked at an angle to throw the façade slightly off balance. This dynamic. Asymmetry continues in the inner sanctuary jawless bird, fierce tigers and sunflowers project from every part of the pedestal. Rows of stone towers jut up from the terraces, forming a labyrinth of pink sandstone. To counterbalance the overpowering décor, the courtyard is spacious and decorated with only a few frangipani trees.

The North Balinese sculpture style with its caricatural tendency is found on other temples in the area besides on the temples mentioned at sangsit, Jagaraga and Kubutambahan for example, on temples at Bungkulan and Bebetin.

As you drive along the north coast road also keep your eyes open for wooden split drums or kulkuls which are carved with a humans head on top. For some reason they are rarely found in South Bali . Examples may be see at Bungkulan (the village past Sangsit), at Kubutambahan, and the finest of all at Tejakula.

SAWAN. The northen island are filled with the unexpected. A side trip southeast of Singaraja passed the small temple of Jagaraga whose reliefs portray: wo smug European in a models T Ford suddenly taken unawares by an armed bandit(a robbery probably inspired by cow boy film); flaying aces in one propped aircraft pluging into the sea; and a Ducht sreamer signaling an SOS upon being attacked by a crocodilian sea monster. Even the wicked Rangdas and fertility statues a dazen mother buried under a pile of children are skillfully hewn with a delightful sense of humor. This trip ends at Sawan, a village with a gong casting industry and talented troup of the bamboo gamelan angklung orchestra.

Sculpture that draws on modern motifs is not entirely lacking in the south. On the Pura Dalem of Blahkiuh near Sangeh a relief depicts a Japanese shooting at an airplane, and a temple relief at Penarungan (Mengwi) interprets the Japanese rape of Balinese girls.

KUBUTAMBAHAN. Here, pura Maduwe Karang "Temple of the Owner of the Land" honor Mother Earth and sun which give prospen.to the crops of dry agriculture. As Subak temple venerate the creative urge in nature that insur.harvests on irrigated rice fields, this temple holds ceremonies to guarantee a "blessing.plants grown on un irrigated land: fruits, coconut, maize and coffee. On its festival d.farmers from surrounding villages come to a. for remnants of the offerings which are buried in the fields, a symbolic ritual to transmitted divine benevolence to the soil. Formerl.Kubutambahan was the center of federation of village, which helps explain the widespread importance of Pura Maduwe Karang. The temple carvings are startling ghoul's domestics, lovers and noblemen, even an official riding a flowery bicycle.

From Kubutambahan, one turns south crosses the mountains to Penulisan and descends to Denpasar.

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